#INSTAL OF BLADES TAILS PORTABLE#

I have no doubt that it would raise the saw and allow it to be pushed around. I do have doubts about how well it would work for the application.

The Hover Pad is an interesting idea and would even fit the tooling budget for this project. I actually bought one of these on auction (not for this purpose) for $100.00. Pretty cool and I think not that expensive to build. I saw a friend years ago do this on a bandsaw and an articulating boom that he built to hold (in a sling) the other end of the rafter so the tail that he was not working on could move in all directions (180 degrees and in and out on the same plane as the band saw table). How about a HoverPad instead of casters? I would imagine it would do a much better job of not transferring any small irregularities in the floor. Typically used in table tops as a conveyor device. The correct name of that type of caster is 'Steel Ball Transfers' or 'Ball Transfers'. They are a 2' diameter ball and cup type and can roll any direction with no drag unlike standard casters with wheels and axels. The real secret to his set up is the casters under his bandsaw. Both plates are of course shimmed to be on the same flat plane. He has a second steel plate that the band saw rolls and registers on. He stages the material on horses that rest on a thick flat steel plate on the floor. Make a template and use a pattern bit in a 3 1/2 hp router.Īs usual, this forum is a wealth of great information! The guy who dimensioned the cedar for my job uses the 'rolling 14' bandsaw technique' himself. Rough cut most of the stock away with a jigsaw. What's the shortest length the guy will accept? I mean, could you cut him 6 footers? If he's planning on using both ends for tails, seems his target range length must be in the neighborhood of 5 feet? I would imagine this is not an option (or one you thought of and can't use). The larger the wheels the smoother the rolling action. If the timber is secured at the right elevation and is level/perpendicular to the blade you should have no problem with the blade wandering.

Rather than move the wood through the saw, roll the band saw through the wood allowing the wheels to roll on the concrete floor with ease. Try this – on a good flat concrete surface, rig a set of tall horses to support the lumber/timber and make a sturdy base with swivel dolly wheels and mount your band saw to this base. Not sure if this would work for your need, but if I understand your dilemma. I do not remember what I paid but definitely reasonable. The result was near perfect.Ībout three years ago I did a timberframe pergola in white oak and needed to do the same thing. This made for a real quick cut and gave me some time to fiddle with beltsander, r/o sander, chisel and even a few hand planes. I did this the poor man's way on my home shop by gang clamping all the rafters together, nailing on a fence, and running my circular saw at an angle - or actually several angles, several passes. Anyone have any experience with one of those hand held oscillating spindle sanders? My Bosh jig saw has a blade called the 'Progressor' that is long enough so it’s just a matter of how much it will deflect. I am doing this as a side adventure in woodworking so losing $4,000.00 wouldn't work out.

#INSTAL OF BLADES TAILS PORTABLE#

Mafell makes a portable band saw for that type cut also but very pricy. I think the long Festool blades fit the Bosch jig saw but not sure if they cut as good. We just cut some curves and notches in a 3 1/4' thick bar top with a Festool jig saw. So, the question is, does anyone have a better tool to cut curves in thick material that is too long and heavy for the band saw? I tried to get information on a tool called a Portaband and it seems as though that machine is made for cutting steel to length and doesn't have any sort of table/base to hold it at strictly 90 degrees to a surface while scroll cutting.

I can foresee that the blade will wander out of square to the face even in a soft wood like cedar at this thickness. This is a pain because the stocks (western red cedar/tight knot) actual measurements are 2 5/8' x 5 5/8'. I am sure it will be impossible to use any of my band saws to scroll the end of a 10 footer so with my tools the jig saw seems the only alternative. Unfortunately, the contractor wants to receive the work from me in the form of 10 foot long pieces scroll cut on both ends so that he has some latitude in cutting these pieces to final length before cutting the birdsmouth’s and 'sistering' them to the rough fir framing. I landed a job cutting a scrolled pattern on all the rafter tails for a tudor styled house soon to be framed.

Instal Of Blades Tails